| Part name | Count | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| KLOR PCB | 02 | You can find the files for it here |
| Nice!Nano | 02 | Alternatively, you can use another controller with similar pinout and bluetooth capabilities like the Puchi-BLE |
| MX Key switch | 42 | 40 switches for Konrad / 38 switches for Yubitsume / 36 switches for Saegewerk |
| switch socket | 42 | 40 sockets for Konrad / 38 sockets for Yubitsume / 36 sockets for Saegewerk |
| diodes 1N4148W | 44 | These are surface mount diodes in SOD123 package. 42 for Konrad / 40 for Yubitsume / 38 for Saegewerk |
| 1u MX keycaps | 42 | 40 keycaps for Konrad / 38 keycaps for Yubitsume / 36 keycaps for Saegewerk |
| OLED module | 02 | SSD1306 128x64 pixel OLED Displays |
| reset button | 02 | Alps SKRTLAE010 |
| power switch | 02 | MSK12C02 |
| EC11 encoder | 02 | You can use any EC11 encoder, but it will look better if you use a short one, like the EC11N1524402 |
| encoder knob | 02 | The design works best with a 2,2cm encoder knob. I'd recommend kilo international knobs with a number starting with 90. You could also use the knob I designed for the KLOR, based on the kilo knob. |
| Lipo battery | 02 | |
| USB cable | 01 | For connecting the keyboard with your PC |
| Part name | Count | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| MCU sockets | 04 | For socketing your MCU. Highly recommended |
| MCU pins | 48 | In combinatin with the MCU sockets |
| JST Jack | 02 | JST PH |
| SK6812 Mini LED (not Mini-E) 3535 size | 42 | 40 LEDs for Konrad / 38 LEDs for Yubitsume / 36 LEDs for Saegewerk |
| TRRS jack | 02 | MJ-4PP-9 or PJ320A You can add TRRS jacks, so you can swap out the Microcontroller to make it a wired board |
| TRRS cable | 01 | See TRRS jack |
| trackball | 01 | Pixart PAW3204OA. Available at Yushakobo |
| level converter | 01 | Needed to use the trackball. You can get it from Yushakobo |
| tenting puck | 02 | SplitKB Tenting Puck |
| Part name | Count | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| acrylic parts | 02 | Find the case files here |
| switch plate | 02 | 1.5mm switch plate |
| 9mm M2 standoffs | 22 | Up to 22 9mm round standoffs for the actual case (check the appropiate puzzleguide) |
| 7mm M2 standoffs | 12 | 7mm round standoffs for holding the PCB in place |
| 6mm M2 screws | 56 | Up to 56 regular 6mm M2 screws (check the appropiate puzzleguide) |
| 5mm M2 wafer head screws | 12 | These screws need a flat head to fit under the acrylic top layer |
Here is an overview of where and on which side each component needs to be soldered (click on the image to see a larger version).
To see what component needs to sit where you can take a look at the interactive HTML BOM.
Warning This interactive HTML BOM does show where each component is located, but please still refer to the solder guide above to see if a component needs to go on the top or bottom of the PCB.
Be aware that for the 3D printed case some components need to be soldered on the opposite side.
Some people mark the top and bottom with tape to keep track of which side is which, as the PCB is reversible.
Beginn with the flat components and progress to the higher ones, ending with the OLEDs and the encoders.
If you choose a layout other than Polydactyl you should remove the unnecessary parts. Use a flush cutter to snip through the support sections. You can also use a boxcutter to carve in grooves, which makes it easier to break on the right spot.
Warning Be very careful with this step, since there is a risk to break the PCB. Probably it would be best to beginn with this step, to avoid loosing already soldered parts.
You can use a file to smooth out the edges, but you should wear a mask while doing this, since the FR4 dust is considered to be toxic.
Warning First flash the microcontroller to make sure it works, before soldering it in.
Unlike most other boards here the microcontroller needs to be mounted on the bottom, with the components facing upwards (to the PCB).
Feel free to use the included header pins, but it's highly recommended to use MillMax low profile sockets.
Place the sockets in the marked spots on the bottom side of the PCB.
You can keep them in place by using masking tape.
Then you can flip the board to solder in the sockets from the top. Flip it again and insert the pins into the sockets.
Note Use tweezers to insert them. Don't apply too much force, you will feel them snap in. After that, you can carefully apply some pressure, using a flat object to make sure they're fully seated.
Now place your microcontroller on the pins (components facing the PCB) and solder it to them.
You can use flush cutters to trim the header pins.
Warning When trimming with flush cutters wear eye protection or hold your hand close above the pins. Otherwise sharp metal pins flying around might hurt you.
Note If you use a layout with three thumbs, instead of four, you need to bridge the 'lost thumb?' jumper below the TRRS sockets on the primary and secondary PCB, since the led chain lost its beginning.
LEDs are very heat sensitive. So it's a good idea to solder the pads on the PCB bottom first and then insert the LED.
While the bottom of the PCB is facing you, insert the LEDs in the holes. The lens should face the table.
This image depicts the correct orientation.
The L shaped pad on the LED need to be connected to the square marked pad.
Note While the orientation is uniform within a half, it differs between left and right.
Warning It's recommended to solder the LEDs in at 220º, since they're pretty heat sensitive. Personally, I had a hard time keeping it below 270º. So my advice would be while soldering the first pad on every LED, try to be really quick. Then solder the second pad on every LED, starting with the first LED. This way they can cool down in the meantime.
Make sure the solder always builds a strong connection between the pad on the LED and the pad on the PCB.
The advantage of soldering in the microcontroller first is that you can occasionally check if all the LEDs work before continuing.
This graphic shows the order in which the LEDs are chained together.
Note While it's possible to use LEDs in a BLE board be aware that this will hugely decrease your battery life.
The diodes needs to be soldered on the bottomm of the PCB. Pay attention to their orientation: They have a small line on one side, which should be on the side the arrow on the PCB is facing to.
Apply a small amount of solder on one pad.
Then use tweezers to place the diode on the pads and reheat the solder to secure the diode.
Now you can solder the second pad.
Here you can apply the same technique as used for the diodes: Apply some solder on one of the pads first.
Then place the switch socket in the silk screen markings and reheat the solder. Apply some pressure with a pair of tweezers to make sure the socket is fully seated.
Now solder the second pad.
Apply a tiny bit of solder on one of the bigger, outer pads on top of the PCB. The power switch has some tiny knobs on its bottom, which fits into the PCB holes. Hold it in place with tweezers and than reheat the solder on the pad. After this you can solder the other pad and the three pins.
Insert the legs of the JST jack into the bottom of the PCB with the open side facing inwards
Now use some masking tape to keep it in place, since you need to solder it from the top.
You also need to bridge the jumpers next to the connector to make it work.
Note While it's easier to swap out batteries if they already got a JST-PH connector you can also solder the battery to the + RED and - BLACK pinholes. This way you don't need to bridge the jumpers.
The reset switches are a bit fiddly to solder. It helps to apply a really thin film of solder to the outer pads first. Then hold the switch in place with tweezers and solder the big pads on the left and right of the switch (they do not fulfill any electrical purpose, but serve to hold the switches in place). If the switch is seated corretly flip the PCB and solder the pads in the middle from below.
Warning You don't need the TRRS jacks for running the KLOR with ZMK. Actually you can damage your board when connecting it through TRRS, while also connected to a battery.
Install the TRRS jack on the bottom side of the PCB. The place where you should insert it is marked with a white line. You may want to use some masking tape to hold it in place, since you need to solder it on the bottom.
Note While the hardware side should already work fine, I still need to add the code for the trackball.
TBA
Note Currently ZMK only supports encoders on the primary side of split keyboards.
Mount the rotary encoder on the top side of the PCB. It should click into place maybe requiring a firm press. If it's seated correctly solder the pins on the bottom.
Warning Make sure the keyboard is fully functional before soldering the OLEDs, since they're the only components which cover pins, you won't be able to access once they are in place.
First step should be to bridge the jumpers on the top of the PCB next to the OLED.
Note The OLED needs to be as flush to the PCB as possible to fit under the switchplate.
You need to remove the plastic part, which is usually attached to the OLED, from the headers, while keeping the pins. For me the easiest way is to use flush cutters to snap the plastic in half, which allows you to remove the parts easily. You probably need to bend the pins back in place after doing this.
You also need to cover the back of the OLED with electrical tape, to prevent shorts with the microcontroller pins. Especially the top part with the copper traces is important.
Insert the OLED on the top of the PCB. Make sure it sits as flush to the PCB as possible. Maybe hold it in place with some masking tape.
Note You could also temporarily install the switchplate over the OLED, using a few switches. This way you make sure it's exactly in the right spot and rotation.
Solder the OLED into place.
Now use flush cutters to trim the top and bottom pins. Especially the top pins should be as short as possible to avoid interference with the switch plate.
If you use a metal switch plate consider to cover them with electrical tape to prevent shorts.
Note If you need to desolder the OLED or fix its placement just apply a lot of solder to the four pins to connect them. This way you can heat all four pins at once and remove it by gently applying force to the bottom edge of the OLED module. Be really carefull not to use too much pressure, since you could rip off a pad or destroy the OLED (which happens pretty fast).
This is how your finished PCB probably will look like. You can use an old toothbrush and some isopropanol to clean it from residues.
If you have not already flashed the firmware to the microcontroller you should do it now, to make sure everything works, before inserting it into the case.
Here you can find the ZMK firmware for the KLOR.
You need to create an own fork of it. In this fork you can edit the keymap to trigger an Github action, which will create your firmware.
Note Since there are a lot of different parts please check the 'puzzle guide' which you can find in the same folder than the case files of your layout.
Screw the standoffs onto the bottom plate. You can find the locastion of the 7mm standoffs and 9mm standoffs in the 'puzzle guide', but as a rule of thumb the 9mm standoffs should be on the outside, holding the case parts, while the 7mm standoffs will hold the PCB and switchplate.
(The dark shapes on the bottom are pieces of deskmat, I use as bumpers.)
Next you should align the parts of the first layer to the outer standoffs. The parts for the left and right case are interchangeable.
Now you can insert the PCB and add the other layers.
Align the plate and screw them to the center standoffs.
For this step you need the 5mm wafer head screws, since other screwheads would intersect with the top layer.
Finally attach the top plate and insert the switches into the plate.
The design works best with 23mm (0.9") diameter encoder knobs. My recomendation would be a knob from kilo internationl with a number beginning with 90 (which means a 0.9" diameter) like the OEDNI-90-4-7 shown here.
This is how the final keyboard will look like. In this picture you see the KLOR saegewerk, with RAMA Grid keycaps in NOCT.
