Use BAS outputs to simulate 10K temp sensor?? #572
Replies: 3 comments 17 replies
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You might just be better off putting a 4k resistor in its place. This tells me that either the internal software went out of calibration or there is a voltage drop on the sensor wire and the ADC is reading higher resistance. I can't quite put my finger on the cold water thingy since older cells had no concept of this. I'm not so sure that the issue isn't that the temp compensation on the EC sensor inside the cell is not very good so they opted for a too cold approach. When the water temp is actually low it does read salt levels < 2650 which is essentially 0 to the cell. |
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ok, is there some scenario where I can change the SWG setpoint from Screenlogic but not from NJSPC? But I can still change other pool settings, pump speed, spa mode, heater, etc from NJSPC? Grabbed a quick replay with the following steps:
Admittedly, I have been playing with the temp sensor on the flow switch per the thread above. I wired the flow switch 10K back in and it is reading temp properly... for now. The 4th and 5th LEDs are lit when I do diagnostics which tells me it's reading between 86-95 which is accurate. I have my doubts that temp will keep reading accurately but we'll see. But it seems i've lost SWG control from NJSPC in the process? Hoping you guys that live in the matrix can spot some dumb thing I'm overlooking |
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Just wanted to say that as of this morning, my SWG flow switch is still reporting temp accurately (for now) and I again have control of the SWG via njspc->mqtt->nodered Not sure what sent the SWG out of whack, don't remember setting it up as external, i think njspc just detected it that way. Either way, I'm a happy camper this AM. Thanks again for the support @rstrouse @tagyoureit |
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This probably sounds dumb... but hear me out.
I've got an SWG - Pentair IC40. It's about 7 years old but still generating Cl (~3000 hours according to the onboard LEDs). Problem is I keep getting the "Low Temp" warning.
Low Temp, in FL, in the dead heat of summer? 😂🤷♂️
Right now my pool temp is 83 and it's only that low because it's been stormy and overcast the past 2 days and I've got the low temp warning. Onboard LEDs say the pool temp is 46-55F (the 40+60% LEDs are lit when I check temp).
Conventional wisdom says the flow switch 10K temp sensor is bad. Time to swap it out. I've done that. I even hooked up the flow switch to the BAS prior to installing in the SWG, set up a temp sensor and flow switch on open inputs and confirmed that both were reading correctly. But after installing in the SWG, temp reads 20-30F lower.
Less conventional wisdom says clip the green/white wires going into the SWG from the flow switch and wire in an external 10K sensor that's tapped into the pool plumbing. I've tried that too - it's how I've got it wired right now. The 10K sensor was reading correctly prior to wiring it up to the SWG. No dice, SWG still registers 20-30F lower.
Now, I can get away with this in the summer time because most days the actual pool temp gets to 87-88 degrees, which is enough to push the onboard SWG temp reading to 56-65F which turns off the Low Temp warning. But in the Fall/Winter/Spring....
I know I'll have to spring for another IC40 eventually but throwing down $1200-1400 for a cell that's otherwise working seems excessive. So I had the thought, can I trick it to think that water temp is normal by just simulating 100Fand hoping that the SWG reads it as 70-80F?
AFAIK, temp is interpreted by reading KΩ so can I somehow set an output on the BAS to mimic whatever KΩ reading corresponds to 100F?
Not too concerned about water temp falling below 55 here.
Just a thought that I wanted to get some feedback on. Hope it makes sense.
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